GKtech Steering Angle Kit for Nissan 350Z G35
from $347.00
The GKTECH V3 Z33 350z/G35 angle kit is a simple, lightweight, yet super effective bolt on steering kit.
It is a bolt on kit, meaning it can be fitted and removed with no modifications. A completely reversible install, even when used with our Super Lock Lower Control Arms!
With 30% faser steering these are suitable for both the dedicated drift cars whilst working equally as well for a grip/street car looking to speed your steering up.
If you own one of these vehicles, you would know the OEM steering angle on the Z/G chassis sucks! We measured them to having around 37 degrees lead wheel and even less trailing. This kit will allow you to get around 60 degrees of lock lead wheel and with adjustable ackerman you can acheive near parallel front steering.
We strongly recommend our bolt on rack spacer to make the most of the kit but they are an optional item as some people may already have a rack spacer. (SOLD SEPARATELY).
To get the most out of your 350Z/G35 angle kit and to correct the poor geometry of the OEM 2pc lower control arm, we recommend our Super Lock Lower Control Arms as seen here:
https://us.gktech.com/350z-g35-4130-chromoly-super-lock-lower-control-arms
More information on this can be seen in the FAQ below.
- 30% faster steering
- Adjustable ackerman
- Circa 60 degrees of steering lock
Vehicle Compatibility:
- Nissan Z33 350z
- Infiniti G35
NOTE: Ensure to set the lock stop prior to the caliper hitting the strut on lock.
FAQ'S
Does installing this kit require a wheel alignment?
Yes, it alters both toe so a wheel alignment will be required after installation.
Will this fit my car?
We can only confirm fitment for the vehicles listed above under "vehicle compatibility". If your car is not listed there, then we don't know if it will fit.
Is there anything else needed for installation?
There is not, however, in terms of the kit itself it will arrive as shown in the product photo.
Can I install this myself? If so how long will installation take?
Yes, provided you have general mechanical knowledge as they are relitively straightforward. Installation time should be around 30 minutes. However, being a suspension component we recommend only a trained professional to install this product
What wheel specs are optimal?
The 350z/G35's have a HUGE swaybar up front which is not ideal. Some customers choose to remove this which certainly helps with clearance. From our test vehicles we found low offsets (near 0 or even negative) were best for fitment without the use of extended FLCA's. The swaybar being the main issue.
Do I need bolt on rack spacers?
It is not completely neccessary, if you are chasing lock, then we do recommend the bolt on rack spacers this will allow for more travel of the rack, which results in more steering lock.
If you are not chasing steering lock and just want to have faster steering and then the bolt on rack spacers are not a requirement.
Should I get offset rack spacers or bolt on rack spacers?
This boils down to your setup, if you have low offset wheels and adjustable arms already and feel as if, if you had more lock the steering may over center, then we recommend the offset rack spacers, as they still provide adequate rack travel while also mitigating over-centering.
If your setup is fairly standard and you just want to obtain more steering lock, then I would just recommend the bolt on rack spacers, which to date is adequate.
I already have inner tie rod ends that have rack spacers built in, should I get your bolt on rack spacers?
The aim of the game is to unlock the full potential of the steering rack through rack spacers. If you inner tie rod ends already have them built in, thats fine and they still can be used, but we do recommend checking if that is a limiting factor (assuming they are shorter then the ones we recommend) if they are then we suggest the bolt on rack spacers, because who doesn't like more lock right? ...... right!
What is the difference between the V1 and V2?
The V1 had adjustable bump steer correction, however, we have now fixed it in place as it wasn't super beneficial to have it adjustable. The position it is fixed in now is optimal and allows for an easy install.
Also, we have changed the design ever so slightly to avoid any modifications or grinding to the OEM knuckle.
This means it is now 100% reversible.
NOTE: Ensure to set the lock stop prior to the caliper hitting the strut on lock.
Super super important critical installation notes: Install video at the bottom of page.
- Ensure that your lock stop is set to touch before your brake line or banjo coming out of the brake caliper hits the strut. Don't just completely remove the lock stop. VERY IMPORTANT!
- Set the nut for the outer heim around 1/2" out from the very end of the thread. This will ensure that the nut doesn't foul on the bracket throughout the range of motion. Refer to the images below which show in greater detail what I'm referring to. VERY IMPORTANT!
- In some cases we have seen the head of the bolt that holds the tie rod heim make contact with the casting on the OEM knuckle. The castings seem inconsistent across the years but seeminlgy more evident in the later years (2006>). In the event that the head of the bolt does make contact with the knuckle the knuckle does need to be shaved down. This is very important to ensure that the steering bracket is sitting flush. Refer to the images below which show in greater detail what I'm referring to. VERY IMPORTANT!
- Ensure that the heim is sitting in a horizontal position once the alignment is set. The heim should be able to move freely.
- If you have purchased the bolt on rack spacer, it is to be installed on the passenger side of the vehicle. This is the same whether your car is LHD or RHD. Irrespective, it is to go on the passengers side.
- The steering rack must be re-centred if you are installing a rack spacer. This is to ensure that you have equal travel from one side to the other. If your car doesn't have equal travel from one side to the other, your rack isn't centred. Re-centre it.
- There are 4 tie rod rods included with the kit. 2 shorter and 2 longer ones. Use the appropriate ones based on the rack spacers that you are using (if any at all). Ensure that you have adequate thread overlap. Example: if you are using the bolt on rack spacer, you'll likely need the shorter rod on the passenger side and the longer rod on the drivers side. If you are using our offset rack spacers you'll likely need shorter rods on both sides. Either way, please check that you have adequate thread overlap.
- The tolerances on the first batches of brackets are tight. When mounting the bracket to the knuckle don't tighten the ball joint side or the lock stop side all the way down until you have everything in place or else you won't be able to get it bolted down. We have made a note of this and for future batches we will open the holes up a little more. If your bracket isn't lining up perfectly while trying to mount it on 2 different axis, grab a 1/2" drill bit and open the holes for the lock stop mount from 12mm to 1/2"
- The swaybar is huge on these cars. It will almost certainly be the limiting factor in your search for steering lock. We will soon be working on a solution and we will keep you posted but why not try the kit without a swaybar!? In our testing Luke Fink chose to remove the swaybar and loved it.
- Wheel width and offset = If you want to keep the above mentioned swaybar, you can likely fit as low as a -20 offset on the front of the 350z's. We sell hub centric spacers, don't be afraid of spacing the wheels out for more clearance.
Wheel alignment notes:
- We tested the kit with a total of 8mm toe out (5/16" for our American friends). The car felt great on track however for daily/street driving less toe out out is going to give a good balance.
- Low amounts of toe out or toe in will introduce a small amount of negative ackerman near full lock (not desirable).
- The steering arm is now shorter and as such steering requires less input. This may make the car feel "twitchy"
- Toe out and/or a high scrub radius can also make the car feel "twitchy"
- We are working on a FLCA solution now which will will allow you to remove wheel spacers, reducing your scrub radius but keeping the wheel further outward in the wheel arch to assist with clearance to the swaybar.
LEGAL IN CALIFORNIA ONLY FOR RACING VEHICLES WHICH MAY NEVER BE USED, OR REGISTERED OR LICENSED FOR USE, UPON A HIGHWAY